Sometimes repairing the old door stops making sense. Maybe the bottom section is rusted through, the panels are dented from years of bikes and bumpers, or it's a heavy wood door that keeps wearing out springs. A new door can also make an attached garage warmer and quieter. This page covers what to think about before you call, and what a typical installation looks like. If you're not sure yet, start with repair or replace.
Door types you'll be offered
Steel
The most common choice. Steel doors come uninsulated (a single layer of steel), with insulation panels added, or as fully insulated sandwich doors with steel on both faces. Thicker steel resists dents better, which matters in a tight single-car garage.
Carriage-house style
Steel or composite doors designed to look like old swing-out barn doors, with decorative handles and hinges. They suit capes and colonials well, and still roll up on tracks like any sectional door.
Wood and composite
Real wood looks great and needs regular painting or staining to hold up against salt and damp. Wood-look composite doors give a similar look with much less upkeep.
Insulation, and when it's worth it
If the garage is attached, or there's a room above or beside it, an insulated door makes a noticeable difference in winter and cuts street noise. It also helps keep the garage above freezing on the coldest nights, which is easier on the springs, the opener and anything stored in there. For a detached garage used only for the car, an uninsulated or lightly insulated door is often all you need.
Insulated doors also tend to be stiffer and quieter. Ask the installer how the insulation is rated and what kind of bottom seal and weatherstripping come with the door, because those matter as much as the panels in a nor'easter.
Older garages: headroom and odd sizes
Many detached garages behind Brockton capes and older multi-family homes were built for smaller cars, with low ceilings and openings that aren't today's standard sizes. That can mean a low-headroom track kit, a custom-size door, or a wall-mount opener instead of a ceiling one. Mention this on the phone so the installer brings the right measurements and parts.
What a typical installation looks like
- Measuring visit or photos. The installer measures the opening, the headroom above it, the side room and the depth of the garage.
- Ordering. Most doors are made to order, so there's usually a wait between choosing the door and installing it.
- Removal. The old door, springs and tracks come out. Old springs are released safely first.
- Install. New tracks, the door sections, springs sized to the new door, cables and seals go in.
- Opener. The existing opener is reconnected and adjusted, or a new one is installed.
How long it takes: a standard single-car or two-car door replacement is usually done in a single day once the door arrives. Add time for custom sizes, framing repairs around the opening, or a new opener.
Questions to ask about a new door
- Which insulation options fit an attached garage like mine?
- Will the new door need a low-headroom kit or a different opener?
- How long between ordering and installation?
- Will you haul away the old door and springs?
- Are you registered as a Massachusetts home improvement contractor, and will I get a written contract?
- What warranty comes with the door, the springs and the installation?
Massachusetts requires most contractors doing work on existing one- to four-family homes to be registered under the state's Home Improvement Contractor program, and you can look up a registration on the state's HIC lookup. The state also has a homeowner resources page about written contracts.
Questions people ask
Is an insulated garage door worth it in Massachusetts?
For an attached garage or one with a room above it, usually yes. It keeps the garage warmer in winter, reduces noise, and is easier on the springs and opener. For a detached garage used only for parking, a basic door is often enough.
Can a new door fit my older detached garage?
Usually, yes. Low-headroom track kits and custom-size doors are made for exactly that. Mention the ceiling height and opening size when you call.
Do I need a new opener with a new door?
Not always. A healthy opener can often be reconnected. If the opener is old, has no safety sensors, or the new door is much heavier, the installer may suggest replacing it.